Resolve até passar novamente das 2200/2500rpm em 5ª. Ás vezes em 4ª...
Mas se puxar 1ª, 2ª e 3ª á cão não faz.
Fixo !!!Safe Mode (00575-Intake Mainfold Pressure)Resolvido..
- Thread starter Esteves
- Data de Início
Resolve até passar novamente das 2200/2500rpm em 5ª. Ás vezes em 4ª...
Mas se puxar 1ª, 2ª e 3ª á cão não faz.
Atão é da valvula quase de certeza, pelo menos 90% dos casos em que o carro faz isso é.
O meu fez isso durante uns tempos, levou um esticão desses e acordou pá vida, isto mais ou menos á uns 2 anos.
Agora ando com um stress parecido outra vez, amanha vou tentar a mesma soluçao a ver no que dá.
O meu fez isso durante uns tempos, levou um esticão desses e acordou pá vida, isto mais ou menos á uns 2 anos.
Agora ando com um stress parecido outra vez, amanha vou tentar a mesma soluçao a ver no que dá.
Deve ser a n75 que tem a membrana lixada e nao aguenta pressao m carga
Nao é TDi... ?
Deve é prender a tal membrana de vez em quando...
O melhor é ele tirar o erros como vag-com e testar uma que estaja impec. Assim acabasse com as duvidas.
Sim, isso era o ideal para acabar com as duvidas de vez, mas comprar uma N75 nova e depois se o problema nao era esse é chato.
Chatissimo, já mandei 45€ aos porcos por isso mesmo, a minha N75 é nova, e o carro está na mesma.
Sendo assim já que é nova, ou é um tubito da electrovalcula(o que vai ao turbo ou o de vacuo) estalado, ou geometria presa e quando entra em carga como prende a sentralinha entra em safe mod.
Pois, os tubos levou novos, a N75tb, o turbo é de geometria fixa...
Também tenho esse problema... se fôr aos 200km/h com o pé a fundo ele ali às 4250rpm entra em safe, se levar o pé uma nesga antes do pedal a fundo aguenta-se bem e passa os 200 de ponteiro...
O estranho é ser só mesmo quando o pedal está a fundo completamente e geralmente em subidas ->maior carga...
Vou mudar os tubos se continuar não sei não.. já agora onde é que os posso arranjar (quanto preciso e de que diâmetro) em Lx, alguem me sabe dizer?
O estranho é ser só mesmo quando o pedal está a fundo completamente e geralmente em subidas ->maior carga...
Vou mudar os tubos se continuar não sei não.. já agora onde é que os posso arranjar (quanto preciso e de que diâmetro) em Lx, alguem me sabe dizer?
Exacto.. esta merd@ é um prob aleatório..
Já fiz 190/200 e nada... já ás vezes entra aos 140~3000rpm´s, a pisar á bruta, mas é o que digo.. se for progressivamente.. não faz.. nem a subir....
Fogo.... que cena xata... acho que vou começar plo mais básico e daí por diante.. ora vejam..:
- Tubos de vácuo(akeles que saiem da N75 e vão não sei prá onde(15€ no máximo)
- Tubos do IC(Ou até o Ic esteja entupido)
- Vistoriar colectores(Será o Cat?, que poderá provocar?(Gases a mais??))[alguem tem o De-Cat e faz na mesma?]
- N75 Nova(~80€)
- Turbo(~300(á minha maneira)
Fogo... e agora o off-topic.. o que me fizeram no sábado á noite..
Cumps.
Já sei quem foi e vai pagar o arranjo.. vá lá..
Já fiz 190/200 e nada... já ás vezes entra aos 140~3000rpm´s, a pisar á bruta, mas é o que digo.. se for progressivamente.. não faz.. nem a subir....
Fogo.... que cena xata... acho que vou começar plo mais básico e daí por diante.. ora vejam..:
- Tubos de vácuo(akeles que saiem da N75 e vão não sei prá onde(15€ no máximo)
- Tubos do IC(Ou até o Ic esteja entupido)
- Vistoriar colectores(Será o Cat?, que poderá provocar?(Gases a mais??))[alguem tem o De-Cat e faz na mesma?]
- N75 Nova(~80€)
- Turbo(~300(á minha maneira)
Fogo... e agora o off-topic.. o que me fizeram no sábado á noite..
Cumps.
Já sei quem foi e vai pagar o arranjo.. vá lá..
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Nunca cheguei a apagar os mais de 20 erros ( provavelmente ) na centralina de cada vez que ele me prendia o turbo ou entrava em safe... sei lá.
Só sei que depois da viagem ficou um brinco :ideia: . As causas desde sintoma podem ser várias.
Sinceramente nao sei ajudar, porque nunca soube ao certo o que era no meu. Penso que seria carvao a prender a geometria. O sintoma era igualzinho. Bastava pisar em 4º ou 5º , assim que desse o pico de pressao... ele desligava 1 ou 2 segundos depois.
Um abraço.
Só sei que depois da viagem ficou um brinco :ideia: . As causas desde sintoma podem ser várias.
Sinceramente nao sei ajudar, porque nunca soube ao certo o que era no meu. Penso que seria carvao a prender a geometria. O sintoma era igualzinho. Bastava pisar em 4º ou 5º , assim que desse o pico de pressao... ele desligava 1 ou 2 segundos depois.
Um abraço.
Promenores :rir: Peço desculpa mas nao me lembrava que era de geometria fixa, uma coisa que é dificil acontecer mas pode ser a causa é o sistema de vácuo estar roto na camara de pressao. Ou entao fugas nas emendas dos tubos, visto que têm os tubos novos a N75 e o turbo está ok.
Como podes ver na foto:
Espero ter ajudado.
Abraço
Pá ... descobri isto.. tenho q ver no meu..!!!
È grande mas vale a pena ler...
Troubleshooting the "00575 Intake manifold pressure control difference" code
Usual symptoms: car temporarily runs OK after being started, but particularly in the higher gears, it loses power abruptly after a period of running under load. Power may or may not return temporarily by taking load off the engine and then resuming, and generally returns temporarily after switching off the ignition until the same load conditions occur again.
2a: Locate the "blue" and "red" hoses under the hood. Also locate the small diameter black hose at the center/rear of the engine compartment which connects to one of the black plastic intake pipes. If the latter black hose is not connected, there is your problem! If it IS connected, unplug it from the intake pipe and see if you can feel leaks by blowing into it by mouth. Leaks? There's your problem - replace it (or plug it in at the other end, if it has become disconnected at the ECU). No? How well does the hose fit on its connection point? If the rubber is hardened up and not sealing well, replace it. It is absolutely critical that there be no leaks anywhere in this hose or its connection points.
2b: Remove the trim panel above the windshield wiper linkage, and access the ECU. Unplug the small black hose from the ECU (this is the other end of the hose discussed above). Make sure you can blow through it with it disconnected from the ECU. No? It's plugged (or kinked). Replace it.
2c: Obtain a pressure gauge and suitable hoses and fittings so as to allow system pressures to be checked. Gauge should read 0 to 30 psi. A gauge with a higher pressure range can be used, but accuracy of readings will not be as good.
2d: Connect the pressure gauge to a "T" fitting installed at the "red" colour coded hose. This is straight off the turbo compressor discharge. Arrange for the gauge to be visible from the driver's seat. Drive. Before the engine goes into a "limp" mode, get it to 3rd gear at 2500 rpm. Floor the accelerator. Normal response is for "boost" pressure to go to 12 psi and stabilize (chipped cars will go somewhat higher). If the boost pressure goes up too high and does not come down until the engine goes into "limp" mode, possible causes are: You have not done steps 2a and 2b properly, N75 boost control solenoid valve sticking in "gimme more boost" position, turbo wastegate stuck hose or control unit filled with contamination preventing movement. If the boost pressure never reaches 12 psi, possible causes are: low fuel delivery or wrong fuel in tank or clogged fuel filter, grossly wrong injection timing (will set other codes - check if within specifications - see TDIFAQ), wastegate stuck open, N75 control valve stuck open, clogged exhaust or catalyst, clogged air intake or intake manifold, major leak of boost pressure to atmosphere.
2e: It is possible to confirm if the ECU is "seeing" the proper boost pressure, to determine if you have done steps 2a and 2b properly. Connect VAG-COM, arrange to monitor requested and measured intake manifold pressure, drive around, compare to reading from mechanical gauge. Full load above 2200 rpm should give 1800 millibars requested and actual, and that's 12 psi "actual" gauge pressure. NOTE: the VAG-COM readings are "absolute" and include atmospheric pressure, the gauge readings are "gauge" and do not include atmospheric pressure.
2f: It is also useful to compare readings from the "red" hose to the "black" hose at the intake pipe connection just before the intake manifold. They should give the same results. Otherwise, there is a leak in one of the control hoses. Find the leak and fix it, this will probably solve your problem.
2g: To check the N75, remove the mechanical gauge from the red hose and install it on the blue hose (signal to wastegate). Drive. Floor the accelerator above 2200 rpm in third gear, and note response. The gauge should read ZERO until you floor the accelerator above 2200 rpm, at which point it should give a "spiky" reading in the 5 to 7 psi range.
- If the blue hose gives the same reading as the red hose, even at lighter engine load and lower engine speed, and the boost pressure is lower than it should be at 2200 rpm full load, then the N75 valve is stuck in the "gimme less boost" position. Replace.
- If the blue hose gives a zero reading under all circumstances and boost pressure is LOW under all circumstances, go to step 2h.
- If the blue hose gives a zero reading under all circumstances. but initial boost response is going above 12 psi before the engine goes into "limp" and there is normal power until the engine goes into "limp", then there is either a major leak in a control hose at or near the N75 valve, or the hoses at the N75 are not connected properly, or the N75 valve is stuck and needs to be replaced.
- If the blue hose gives zero at less than full load / 2200 rpm, but then at full load above 2200 rpm it goes all the way to full boost pressure, then the wastegate is stuck closed. Before condemning the turbocharger, make sure the actuator housing for the wastegate isn't full of oil.
2h - Turbo not developing pressure - further troubleshooting. Possible causes: Major boost leak in intake pipe, or clogged intake system or intake manifold, or clogged exhaust system or catalyst, or low power due to low fuel delivery for reasons unrelated to the turbocharger system, or major internal problems with the turbocharger.
- Under normal circumstances, a leak on the high-pressure side of the intake system will result not only in low power but also a lot of black smoke from the exhaust. This may not happen, though, if the engine goes into "limp" before you ask for load on the engine.
- Refer to step 3 for identification of intake system clogging and intake manifold restrictions.
- If fuel delivery is low due to some other fault with the fuel system or the engine or the electronics, then there will not be boost pressure. If VAG-COM reports less than 36 mg/stroke while driving in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm immediately after you put your foot to the floor, then the ECU is limiting fuel delivery for some reason (possibly low air intake - possibly it is already in limp mode for some other reason. This test must be done BEFORE the engine goes into "limp mode"). If VAG-COM is reporting more than 36 mg/stroke, then it's trying to deliver fuel, but it's not happening. Clogged fuel filter, clogged injectors, bad injector pump, wrong injectors for the engine, air leak into the fuel system is preventing fuel from being delivered. fuel leakage on the high-pressure side of the pump.
- With regards to boost leakage, a very common problem is that the rubber connectors between the various parts of the intake system develop "splits" as the rubber ages and hardens. Take apart the intercooler pipes and connectors - ALL of them - and inspect every inch of their length and perimeter for leaks. Start with the rubber elbow that connects to the intake manifold - it's the one that splits most often - and usually the split is on the back, towards the bottom, not easily visible without taking it off the engine! Another common spot for leaks is the horizontal steel pipe coming off the turbo compressor at the top rear of the engine. The wire mesh support sometimes rubs through the steel pipe.
- A major leak in the EGR pipes can also rob power by causing leakage on the exhaust side. Any such leakage ought to be readily apparent (by noise) with the engine running.
- With regards to the exhaust system and the catalyst, problems can only be isolated with certainty by drilling a hole in the downpipe upstream of the catalyst, welding on a suitable pipe fitting, then installing a suitable pipe connected to a pressure gauge. Any more than a couple or three psi of exhaust back-pressure under any load condition is too much. Alternatively, the exhaust system can be temporarily disconnected from the turbocharger and a temporary down-pipe made up to see what happens ... make sure the exhaust isn't going to be aimed at anything that could be damaged by high temperature if you try this, and don't drive it for any longer than necessary to isolate whether this is the problem area.
- If the wastegate is closed, and the N75 is not telling it to open when it shouldn't, and the exhaust isn't clogged, and the intake isn't restricted anywhere, and the injection timing is good, and the FUEL isn't restricted anywhere, and the MAF is showing a proper reading, and the EGR isn't open when it shouldn't be ... then the turbo may be bad.
Este é mais pekeno.. e tem qusae todos os erros possiveis á pressão..
http://www.msi-motor-service.com/ximages/4032.pdf
Cumps
È grande mas vale a pena ler...
Troubleshooting the "00575 Intake manifold pressure control difference" code
Usual symptoms: car temporarily runs OK after being started, but particularly in the higher gears, it loses power abruptly after a period of running under load. Power may or may not return temporarily by taking load off the engine and then resuming, and generally returns temporarily after switching off the ignition until the same load conditions occur again.
2a: Locate the "blue" and "red" hoses under the hood. Also locate the small diameter black hose at the center/rear of the engine compartment which connects to one of the black plastic intake pipes. If the latter black hose is not connected, there is your problem! If it IS connected, unplug it from the intake pipe and see if you can feel leaks by blowing into it by mouth. Leaks? There's your problem - replace it (or plug it in at the other end, if it has become disconnected at the ECU). No? How well does the hose fit on its connection point? If the rubber is hardened up and not sealing well, replace it. It is absolutely critical that there be no leaks anywhere in this hose or its connection points.
2b: Remove the trim panel above the windshield wiper linkage, and access the ECU. Unplug the small black hose from the ECU (this is the other end of the hose discussed above). Make sure you can blow through it with it disconnected from the ECU. No? It's plugged (or kinked). Replace it.
2c: Obtain a pressure gauge and suitable hoses and fittings so as to allow system pressures to be checked. Gauge should read 0 to 30 psi. A gauge with a higher pressure range can be used, but accuracy of readings will not be as good.
2d: Connect the pressure gauge to a "T" fitting installed at the "red" colour coded hose. This is straight off the turbo compressor discharge. Arrange for the gauge to be visible from the driver's seat. Drive. Before the engine goes into a "limp" mode, get it to 3rd gear at 2500 rpm. Floor the accelerator. Normal response is for "boost" pressure to go to 12 psi and stabilize (chipped cars will go somewhat higher). If the boost pressure goes up too high and does not come down until the engine goes into "limp" mode, possible causes are: You have not done steps 2a and 2b properly, N75 boost control solenoid valve sticking in "gimme more boost" position, turbo wastegate stuck hose or control unit filled with contamination preventing movement. If the boost pressure never reaches 12 psi, possible causes are: low fuel delivery or wrong fuel in tank or clogged fuel filter, grossly wrong injection timing (will set other codes - check if within specifications - see TDIFAQ), wastegate stuck open, N75 control valve stuck open, clogged exhaust or catalyst, clogged air intake or intake manifold, major leak of boost pressure to atmosphere.
2e: It is possible to confirm if the ECU is "seeing" the proper boost pressure, to determine if you have done steps 2a and 2b properly. Connect VAG-COM, arrange to monitor requested and measured intake manifold pressure, drive around, compare to reading from mechanical gauge. Full load above 2200 rpm should give 1800 millibars requested and actual, and that's 12 psi "actual" gauge pressure. NOTE: the VAG-COM readings are "absolute" and include atmospheric pressure, the gauge readings are "gauge" and do not include atmospheric pressure.
2f: It is also useful to compare readings from the "red" hose to the "black" hose at the intake pipe connection just before the intake manifold. They should give the same results. Otherwise, there is a leak in one of the control hoses. Find the leak and fix it, this will probably solve your problem.
2g: To check the N75, remove the mechanical gauge from the red hose and install it on the blue hose (signal to wastegate). Drive. Floor the accelerator above 2200 rpm in third gear, and note response. The gauge should read ZERO until you floor the accelerator above 2200 rpm, at which point it should give a "spiky" reading in the 5 to 7 psi range.
- If the blue hose gives the same reading as the red hose, even at lighter engine load and lower engine speed, and the boost pressure is lower than it should be at 2200 rpm full load, then the N75 valve is stuck in the "gimme less boost" position. Replace.
- If the blue hose gives a zero reading under all circumstances and boost pressure is LOW under all circumstances, go to step 2h.
- If the blue hose gives a zero reading under all circumstances. but initial boost response is going above 12 psi before the engine goes into "limp" and there is normal power until the engine goes into "limp", then there is either a major leak in a control hose at or near the N75 valve, or the hoses at the N75 are not connected properly, or the N75 valve is stuck and needs to be replaced.
- If the blue hose gives zero at less than full load / 2200 rpm, but then at full load above 2200 rpm it goes all the way to full boost pressure, then the wastegate is stuck closed. Before condemning the turbocharger, make sure the actuator housing for the wastegate isn't full of oil.
2h - Turbo not developing pressure - further troubleshooting. Possible causes: Major boost leak in intake pipe, or clogged intake system or intake manifold, or clogged exhaust system or catalyst, or low power due to low fuel delivery for reasons unrelated to the turbocharger system, or major internal problems with the turbocharger.
- Under normal circumstances, a leak on the high-pressure side of the intake system will result not only in low power but also a lot of black smoke from the exhaust. This may not happen, though, if the engine goes into "limp" before you ask for load on the engine.
- Refer to step 3 for identification of intake system clogging and intake manifold restrictions.
- If fuel delivery is low due to some other fault with the fuel system or the engine or the electronics, then there will not be boost pressure. If VAG-COM reports less than 36 mg/stroke while driving in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm immediately after you put your foot to the floor, then the ECU is limiting fuel delivery for some reason (possibly low air intake - possibly it is already in limp mode for some other reason. This test must be done BEFORE the engine goes into "limp mode"). If VAG-COM is reporting more than 36 mg/stroke, then it's trying to deliver fuel, but it's not happening. Clogged fuel filter, clogged injectors, bad injector pump, wrong injectors for the engine, air leak into the fuel system is preventing fuel from being delivered. fuel leakage on the high-pressure side of the pump.
- With regards to boost leakage, a very common problem is that the rubber connectors between the various parts of the intake system develop "splits" as the rubber ages and hardens. Take apart the intercooler pipes and connectors - ALL of them - and inspect every inch of their length and perimeter for leaks. Start with the rubber elbow that connects to the intake manifold - it's the one that splits most often - and usually the split is on the back, towards the bottom, not easily visible without taking it off the engine! Another common spot for leaks is the horizontal steel pipe coming off the turbo compressor at the top rear of the engine. The wire mesh support sometimes rubs through the steel pipe.
- A major leak in the EGR pipes can also rob power by causing leakage on the exhaust side. Any such leakage ought to be readily apparent (by noise) with the engine running.
- With regards to the exhaust system and the catalyst, problems can only be isolated with certainty by drilling a hole in the downpipe upstream of the catalyst, welding on a suitable pipe fitting, then installing a suitable pipe connected to a pressure gauge. Any more than a couple or three psi of exhaust back-pressure under any load condition is too much. Alternatively, the exhaust system can be temporarily disconnected from the turbocharger and a temporary down-pipe made up to see what happens ... make sure the exhaust isn't going to be aimed at anything that could be damaged by high temperature if you try this, and don't drive it for any longer than necessary to isolate whether this is the problem area.
- If the wastegate is closed, and the N75 is not telling it to open when it shouldn't, and the exhaust isn't clogged, and the intake isn't restricted anywhere, and the injection timing is good, and the FUEL isn't restricted anywhere, and the MAF is showing a proper reading, and the EGR isn't open when it shouldn't be ... then the turbo may be bad.
Este é mais pekeno.. e tem qusae todos os erros possiveis á pressão..
http://www.msi-motor-service.com/ximages/4032.pdf
Cumps
Last edited:
Boa info.. vou rever o sensor de pressão de aceleração e se não der vou mudar as tubagens. Depois dou feedback. Cumps
Acredita. Enervante, um gajo pode andar a substituir material á parva e não acerta. Queres mostrar o problema a um mecânico e o carro não faz nesse momento...